Jason's Walks

Historical Tours in Hong Kong and Macao

Happy Valley Cemeteries

The lower end of Happy Valley which contains the cemeteries is one of Hong Kong Island’s most interesting apparent urban contradictions.  On one side the racetrack and on the other a picturesque string of cemeteries accommodating the dead of various religions, Muslim, Roman Catholic, Hindu, Parsee and - in the Colonial Cemetery - mostly Protestant. Further up Happy Valley, near the Hong Kong Jockey Club’s platial clubhouse, there is a small but very interesting Jewish Cemetery.

Happy Valley Cemetery

In pre-British times, the Wong Nai Chung valley - Hong Kong Island’s only substantial area of flat arable land - had a number of paddy fields cultivated by the villagers who made their homes there.  After the British came troops were bivouacked on the fields, which interfered with the drainage. The water that had formerly drained away was left lying about after the fields were no longer cultivated, and mosquitoes bred there in large numbers. This in turn encouraged the rapid spread of virulent strains of fever, which claimed many lives, especially among the military encamped in the valley.

In 1846 the cultivators were finally bought out and resettled, the fields cleared and drained and a ring-road put around the valley for recreational purposes - precursor of today’s modern racetrack.  Due to its fever-prone reputation and relative distance from the urban area the picturesque hillsides around the racecourse remained sparsely settled for decades, with only a few isolated houses and the cemeteries strung out around the lower ridges.

Parsee Cemetery

In this walk we will explore the Roman Catholic, Colonial and Parsee Cemeteries, and along the way learn about the contributions made to Hong Kong life by various communities, over the past century and a half, such as the local Portuguese, the Eurasians, the Parsees and the White Russians.  Many have now largely vanished from the local scene, while others continue to play an important role in contemporary Hong Kong.

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